Letters from the Ice: October
The End of Winter
Greetings all,
The end is here. In 1 ½ weeks, I will leave McMurdo Station, Ross Island and the frozen expanse of ice and land that is Antarctica. At the time of this departure, the population of the continent will begin to swell as research is undertaken, logistical support takes place and people from many countries begin to filter out across the 20 or so global research facilities spread around the continent for the Austral Summer. The entire population of this continent at the peak of Summer will not exceed 6000. Our base population is 309 currently and is expected to peak in January at around 1200. I am currently scheduled to fly out on October 5th.
There is a very energetic presence owed to the newcomers and it has helped with bringing about more energy which can also be a challenge to acclimate to. We had some sea divers flown in who undertake research underneath the ice on various aquatic life. They are arguably one of the few researchers who directly derive benefit from my work in treating the 18000+ daily gallons of sewage that flows into the plant dirty and back out to the sea cleansed.
Some of the best days in months have occurred in the past weeks when for a brief 3-5 days the day and night cycle was a perfect 12 hours of light and 12 hours of darkness and the temperatures were above 0F. If only but for a brief period in time the consistency of light and dark brought a peace to an unpredictable and often tempestuous climate. Spring is a catharsis of change and to hold that brief period of perfection allows a rebirth of sorts.
Spring. Summer. Fall. Winter.
Life. Youth. Maturity. Death.
A wise king once wrote “Better is the end of a thing than the beginning thereof: and the patient in spirit better than the proud in spirit.” As Winter has come and gone and I prepare to leave this place where I have worked, breathed and lived for the past 6 ½ Months this passage of wisdom is very fitting. Living and working down here in a place with an obligation to only work for 6 months and then leave it all to another takes on a very powerful meaning. The message of the temporality of life is enforced and the presence of a higher power throughout the universe is reflected in many ways on the ice.
It has been humbling to endure the Antarctic Winter and has helped provide a perspective of which I am very grateful as few people who grace the presence of the earth have experienced or will be able to experience the wonder that comes with it. In this time, I have come to recognize and be grateful for so many things that I would never have thought of otherwise. Whether that is the taste of a fresh grape, the smell of summer rain in the desert, the noise of lakeside waves or sound of thunder, it all is absent here. Most of all, I am grateful for the thoughts and prayers of you all. The knowledge that family and friends are mindful of me in this paradoxically beautiful end of the earth is emboldening.
Blessings,